Library Chic: National Library Week (via Of Another Fashion)

Of Another Fashion is a rich virtual repository of images of women who once occupied societal margins. Consequently, their sense fashion was also marginalized. Of Another Fashion has scanned the archives, collected family photos, and accepted contributions from readers to amass a collection that will honor women of color and their place in the annals of vintage fashion.

In honor of National Library Week the two women below are trailblazing librarians:

Lucille Baldwin Brown was the first Black public county librarian in Tallahassee, Florida.

In 1924 Vivian Gordon Harsh first African American librarian to work at the Chicago Public Library.

True Fashion Icon: Dorothy Porter Wesley

Library Chic: National Library Week

Dorothy Wesley Porter (1905 - 1955). Photo taken by Carl Van Vechten (1880-1964) in New York, May 23 1951.
From Yale Collection of American Literature, Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library. Retrieved from http://beinecke.library.yale.edu/dl_crosscollex/brbldl/oneITEM.asp?pid=2027251&iid=1104674&srchtype= 

Dorothy Porter was the first Black woman to be awarded a Masters of Library Science from Columbia University in 1932. Her first job was at Howard University and she remained there for forty-three years. Porter was tasked with making the Jesse Moorland collection a modern research library.  She created a logistically sound collection that served Howard's students and visiting scholars.  She expanded the collection and authenticated materials with extensive bibliographies. She was responsible for Howard's most prized acquisition, the Spingarn Collection, and the library became the Moorland-Spingarn Research Library. Porter retired in 1973 and Howard University dedicated the “Dorothy B. Porter Reading Room” in her honor.

References:
http://www.howard.edu/msrc/about/HistoryFULL.html
http://www.aaregistry.org/historic_events/view/dorothy-porter-wesley-developer-modern-research-library-black-studies
http://www.nytimes.com/1995/12/20/us/dorothy-porter-wesley-91-black-history-archivist.html

JASON WU! Jason Wu? Jason Who...

When I heard that Jason Wu was creating a line for Target I was elated. I imagined a collection of sophisticated sheath dresses and gorgeous ballet flats in beautiful colors and a myriad of textures like the wardrobe he created for First Lady Michelle Obama.

However, the lookbook dashed my hopes. The shapes are very different from what I imagined--it was full of girlish frocks. Wu expressed that he had no intention of copying his runway show, but creating something fresh for the Target collection.  I understand. He can't have the entire female population of the U.S. walking around in Mrs. Obama's signature style.

The reactions to the lookbook on Facebook are split.
Wu's work is beautiful and he is, without question, a talented designer, but I was given a tricycle when I expected a Harley...Available in stores February 5th.

A TRUE FASHION ICON: Happy Birthday Ms. Ella Baker

“You didn't see me on television, you didn't see news stories about me. (However, when she was in front of the camera she was stunning) The kind of role that I tried to play was to pick up pieces or put together pieces out of which I hoped organization might come. My theory is, strong people don't need strong leaders.” 

Ella Baker believed in grassroots activism. She didn’t believe that the people would benefit from a spokesperson, but rather the people would benefit from agitating for their needs from the sweat of their own brows (“ahem” MLK—God rest his soul), which is why she founded SNCC (Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee) in 1960.

The spirit of Ella Baker’s activism is still so relevant today. In 2008, the citizens of the United States were looking for a strong leader. Through aggressive grassroots efforts, Barack Obama was elected. But some of those same grassroots activists invigorated by the hope offered by candidate Obama became disgruntled by the leadership style they expected from him. Arguably, Obama embodies the spirit of Ella Baker’s activism. Grassroots is not a buzzword for him; it’s not a campaign strategy. It’s a movement. Is Obama just as disappointed in his supported as they are in him? Will that movement pick up its steam  in 2012?

Revolutionary Rosa (with the Flower in Her Hair), December 1, 1955

For some reason afros (a la Angela Davis) represent the African American revolution for civil rights. However, I beg to differ. Rosa Parks was a revolutionary. She didn't wear an afro, but a flower in her hair. I will never wear another flower again without thinking about the message it's sending--even if it is covert.

 Eyes on the Prize was a wonderful documentary, but it created a lot of misconceptions about the nature and chronolorgy of the Civil Rights Movement. Rosa Parks did not just decide that she was too tired one day. She decided to revolt, but my children are still being taught that narrative in school. What is there to gain by perpetuating such a falsity?

A TRUE FASHION ICON: Happy Birthday Representative Mrs. Shirley Anita (St. Hill) Chisholm (D-NY)

“I want history to remember me not just as the first black woman to be elected to Congress, not as the first black woman to have made a bid for the presidency of the United States, but as a black woman who lived in the 20th century and dared to be herself. I want to be remembered as a catalyst for change in America.” - Shirley Chisholm

Kadir Nelson, Oil on canvas, (2008)
Collection of U.S. House of Representatives

While conducting research at the US Capitol, I got lost looking for Dr. Barbara Wolanin’s office (the Capitol Curator) and ran into Representative James E. Clyburn (D - SC), but I wasn’t half as stunned as I was by Kadir Nelson’s portrait of Shirley Chisholm. He captured her essence with the bold, lively colors and active composition that definitely set her apart from the rest of the Capitol’s stoic and monotone art collection, and justly so.

New York Congresswoman Shirley Chisholm was a history maker who stunned the political establishment when she ran for the Democratic Party’s Presidential nomination in 1972. My reaction was to stop dead in my tracks and take a moment to contemplate just how much Chisholm’s bold actions shattered the glass ceiling to shards for Hillary Clinton (She really should have acknowledged Mrs. Chisholm--just saying) and for me as I meandered through the halls to Dr. Wolanin’s office to conduct my thesis research. I walked down the same Capitol corridors as Shirley Chisholm!

Portrait Unveiling, March 3, 2009

Ebony Magazine, February 1969, Collection of U.S. House of Representatives."  

On a much (much) more superficial note, Mrs. Chisholm is one of my greatest fashion influences. Just look at her wardrobe: her mixture of, color texture, pattern, accessories… Need I say more? She, my Great Granny, and my Aunt Edith have triple-handedly chosen my collection of spectacles. I didn’t feel so bad when I realized that I probably wouldn’t ever be able to wear contacts again. The more that I examine the fashion of African American women and history the more I realize that my admiration may not be so superficial. There is definitely something to be said|researched|written about fashion and its connection to black women’s intellectual traditions.

A TRUE FASHION ICON: Happy Birthday Mrs. Daisy Bates

Daisy Bates and her husband L.C. owned and operated a black newspaper press to keep African Americans informed of news that affected their community. They were active members of the NAACP, but they are best known for their diligent and successful efforts to integrate Little Rock's public school's in 1957. The Little Rock Nine were escorted into Little Rock Central High School by soldiers against the will of the local enraged community. The road for the children, their parents, and the Bates was dangerous, but they perservered. In her memoir The Long Shadow of Little Rock, Daisy Bates reveals that she was emotionally exhausted from the constant stress. Yet she remained composed under the pressure with incredible style, grace, and beauty. Mrs. Bates is not only a true style icon, but an example to this generation of women of sacrifice and steadfast devotion to our values.

“Jailing our youth will not solve the problem in Little Rock. We are only asking for full citizenship rights.”

"What is happening at Little Rock transcends segregation and integration–this is a question of right against wrong." 

A TRUE FASHION ICON: Happy Birthday Ms. Dandridge

Dorothy Jean Dandridge was born November 9, 1922 at Cleveland's City Hospital.

Carmen Jones (1954) was her breakthrough role (and one of my favorite movies).

She became the first black woman to appear on the cover of Life magazine (November 1954) and Ebony magazine called her ''Hollywood's New Glamour Queen.”  Her success began to break typecasts that relegated black actresses to subservient roles (1,2).

The movie earned her an Oscar nomination. She was the first black performer to receive a nomination in the category of best actor or actress (2,3).

Unfortunately, Dandridge’s career declined quickly and drastically after experiencing a short and intense time in the limelight.  Apparently, Hollywood was not ready to accommodate an African American leading lady.  Of this revelation Dandridge said, “If I were white, I could capture the world” (http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0199268/bio). She died tragically on September 8, 1965 (2,3).

Halle Berry, the first African American woman to receive an Oscar, dedicates her win to several African American actresses and among them is Dorothy Dandridge.

Dandridge is the contemporary of Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, and Liz Taylor – three cult fashion icons. However, today I pay homage to Dorothy Jean Dandridge, a true style icon, who maintained beauty, style, and grace despite racial indignities.

CREDITS: (1) Dorothy Dandridge: A Biography, By Donald Bogle, Amistad.
(2) “Crashing the Gates: The tragic life of Dorothy Dandridge, Hollywood's first black female star,” (New York Times Book Review), http://www.nytimes.com/books/97/07/13/reviews/970713.watkins.html
,by MEL WATKINS. (3) http://zoratonimaya.tumblr.com/post/12175369590/readersofcolor-womenreading-dorothy. (4) Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS, http://songbook1.wordpress.com/pp/photo-galleries/dorothy-dandridge-gallery-2-fr-1950/dorothy-dandridge-reading-amid-book-pile/

DOUBLE VISION?

No, I just like buying things I like in multiples and this dress was one of those items:

A TRUE FASHION ICON (reaching beyond the canon)

Jackie Ormes (1911-1985) was the first black female comic artist. Patty-Jo 'n' Ginger and Torchy in Heartbeats were nationally-syndicated staples in numerous newspapers. I am absolutlely mesmerized by women who faced the racial indignities of segregation while agitating for civil rights and still managed to maintain flawless appearances.

From the Collection of Judie Miles VIA
 http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=93029000

Torchy in Heartbeats came with a paper doll of the heroine-Torchy Brown, which was replete with wardrobe choices. “She modeled some cartoon characters after herself as beautifully dressed and coiffed females, appearing and speaking out in ways that defied stereotyped images of blacks in the mainstream press”(1). Jackie Ormes provided girls their fantasy fashion world. That’s what paper dolls are all about: creativity, experimentation, and rehearsal for a fabulous future.

I am obsessed with paper dolls. All of my nerdy obsessions have memories attached
to them and contribute a great deal to my fashion sense. On birthdays, my Great-grand Mother would send me a birthday card that had paper dolls attached. Along with my supply of workbooks and coloring books, my Mother also got me books of paper dolls. I coveted them. Sadly, because of their ephemeral nature, none of those dolls survived.


ME--PUTTING MY FASHION
ILLUSTRATION COURSES & BFA
TO GOOD USE

A few years ago I found the most charming paper doll template on the Studio Museum of Harlem’s website and sat for over an hour with my Prismacolors meticulously coloring the outfits created for May, by a contemporary black female illustrator Elaine Pedlar. The slogan on her website reads: “WHERE DREAMERS AND FASHION LOVERS COME TO CREATE AND PLAY.” It is my goal to visit her store very soon, but until then I will continue to visit her website Dumbelle (the movie rocks!) and keep up with her blog.      

REFERENCES

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=93029000

http://www.jackieormes.com/

http://www.nps.gov/brvb/planyourvisit/womensmonth.htm (1)



Jackie Ormes: The First African American Woman Cartoonist
by Nancy Goldstein